Delos

Legend has it that Apollo, the god of the sun was born here. The fact that the island is devoid of shade given its lack of high mountains and trees, therefore bathing its terrain in complete sunlight, gives some validity to that claim. Throughout ancient times Delos became a religious, cultural and commercial centre. Now only the ruined buildings and temples spread over the landscape are all that remain remain. The area is littered with fallen columns, sections of mosaics which once formed the houses of the rich. We visited a number of these ruined buildings. One of was known as the House of Dionysos which depicts a mosaic of the god Dionysos riding on a tiger. She was the god of wine and theatre in ancient Greek religion and myth. Wine played an important role in Greek culture, and the cult of Dionysos was the main religious focus for its consumption. We also came upon the House of Cleopatra, no not her more illustrious Egyptian namesake, but a rich noblewoman and her husband, Discoredes. Incidentally Cleopatra is a common Greek name meaning “She who brings glory to her father.” Now there’s a name we should have bestowed upon one of our daughters!

And there, amidst the ruins, five marble lions stand proudly like sentinels at the gate. It is said that they gaze out to the east waiting to witness the sunrise, the sun of Apollo.

The island lay abandoned for centuries after the Mithridatic War where the city was burnt down and its inhabitants slaughtered. Then at the end of the nineteenth century, a group of French archaeologists began to excavate the ancient city and thus revealed the treasures of this ancient place.

Mykonos

The island of Mykonos is arguably one of the most cosmopolitan islands in the world. Cruise liners  were lined up side by side in the harbour. We counted four as we gazed out towards the sea. Our sojourn there only lasted a few hours but it was enough time to soak in the heady atmosphere and sights. As we walked away from the harbour, along the cliff top path, we could see the fishing boats bobbing in the waters below us. Narrow maze-like streets of white washed buildings with their array of souvenir shops, their awnings practically touching each other on each side of the narrow streets. Every so often we would come upon a courtyard compiled of various tables and chairs placed outside assorted cafes and restaurants.

We made our way through the winding streets and as we ascended further up the steep hilly path, we came upon a set of picturesque windmills standing like sentinels over the town. Their now still skeleton-like sails a silent testimony to another era where they stood majestic and dominant taking advantage of the high winds that typically hit these islands.

The windmills overlook “Little Venice” so named because of the colourful 18^th century Venetian style buildings right on the seafront. In a past life they were the property of shipping merchants and now serve as modern day bars, cafes and restaurants.

We walked along the old harbour and came upon an ornate church called the Church of our Lady of the Side Gate, due to the location of its old entrance.

Stepping inside the church and were impressed by its ornate decorations such as the beautiful gold tables and candlestick holders. Often when we visit a church we make a point of lighting a candle to offer up a prayer for friends and family.

As we walked slowly back to the quay where our ferry was waiting, we passed numerous tourist parties, their guides marching formally at their head, presumably many of them from the various cruise ships that we spied earlier. I wondered what the hippies of old would make of the island’s booming tourist trade now?

Irakleia and Koufonisia

There are islands which are known in shipping terms as “unprofitable routes.” Two of these island are Irakleia and Koufonisiia. Both islands can count their populations in the hundreds. Yet over the last number of years their unspoilt natural beauty and lovely beaches have been discovered. I wanted to visit Koufonisia in particular as a close friend of mine had spent over a year living on the island as an archaeologist and had urged me to go visit there to experience its splendor and isolation.

There is a weekly ferry that leaves from Naxos which visits both islands, so after breakfast I made my way to the little jetty that was close to our apartment to catch the boat. Carmel decided that she would spend some down time staying on the beach to rest and read her books.

As we came closer to Irakleia, the morning mist enveloped the island like an ephemeral shroud making the island look dark and mysterious. Two yachts sprang out of the misty horizon, their sails fluttering in the cooling breeze. All the while our boat was clawing through the blue waters getting ever closer to our destination. The sun made the sea sparkle like little tiny lights flashing luminously on the water. The landscape of the land was speckled and pock marked with various trees and bushes. It reminded me of the scales of a lizard. Various crops of islands seemed to blend into each other filling the horizon with their noble shapes and curves bathed in a silky mist.

The beautiful port of Iraklia. The azure waters lapping idly against the harbour’s edge . There I spied smaller fishing vessels moored side by side.

Given that we were only going to be there for a couple of hours, there wasn’t time to visit the Cave of the Cyclops which was a 45 minute walk from the landing point so I ventured up the hill passing various dwellings along the way and stop off at a tavern for a welcome glass of iced coffee. Our hostess was both exuberant and friendly. 

“Welcome to our beautiful island of Iraklia!”

The heat of the midday sun thankfully tempered by the cool breeze coming off the Aegean Sea fanning our faces as our boat set off for our next port of call, Koufonisia.

Thirty minute later the island pulled into sight.  Coming in to land, I noticed the rock formations leaving the island like unfinished and imposing statues left by their sculptors and never returned to. As we moored up to the dock, our boatman threw the mooring rope towards shore where he was greeted by 2 burly locals who caught the rope ready to tie it to the anvil.

“Yassou Georgis!”

“Yassou Alexandre!”

A group of fishermen were weaving the yellow nets from the boat onto the truck awaiting at the quayside, ready to bring the catch of the day to the few local restaurants on the island.

I made my way along the magnificent beach that stretched out beside the harbour Everywhere there were rooms to let. But there were also a lot of closed tavernas not yet open for the start of the season. Apparently the season only gets under way from June onwards and as this was still May there was little activity.

Time moves blissfully on and soon it was our final evening on Naxos. Staring out at the sea, we watched the Mediterranean  sun sink slowly beneath the evening sky, casting a warm glow over the horizon. We will definitely return some day to this beautiful island with its noble landscapes, its friendly characters, its exotic food. So many experiences and people to write about.

The beauty and splendour of the blue Aegean Sea, the waves lapping peacefully onto the shoreline, I began to ponder on this very sea that many years ago that ancient Greek sailors had sailed staring up at the stars twinkling in the darkened sky, the same stars that they gazed upon with awe and named their gods after. That same sea where many refugees and emigrants now sail on other perilous journeys, many losing their lives, men, women and children, travelling on makeshift boats with dreams and hopes of a better life fleeing from the wretched existence of poverty and war torn lands.

Countless migrants have sailed on these waters down through the centuries where tales of treacherous Aegean crossings have filled the pages of the ancient Greek poet Homer. 

As our ferry sailed on to Piraeus I took a pebble from my pocket that I had picked up on a beach in Naxos and quietly, with a silent prayer, dropped it into the churning waves beneath our boat. A small gesture of solidarity with those who had lost their lives and thankful that we have our destinies set out in front of us which often involves informed choices and opportunities.

Farewell Greece. We both felt a strong sense of gratitude in our hearts. Gratitude for this time together. Gratitude for the places we have experienced. Gratitude for the people we have met. This is merely a temporary parting. 

And so now with a heavy heart I am returning to these islands alone but knowing that my beautiful friend and true partner is alongside me all the way.